'04-'05 CBR1000RR
Exhaust removal and Install.
<< BACK TO CBR1000RR HOME
PAGE
<< BACK TO MICRON SERPENT HOME PAGE
We need to start off by saying, by No means are we a Tech. Support for everyone to call.,
or an Authority on All that is Honda. All we are trying to do here is help those
guys who like to do things themselves. Hands-on kind of guys... or gals.
Obviously, we are hear to help OUR Customers. Specifically people who have purchased products
from us.
We like to give back to our customers, and show our support for their continued loyalty to
us.
But, Even if you haven’t purchased anything from us, you are
obviously welcome to read our write-up. But,
please Don’t call us asking for any extra Tech Support. This write up is all we have to offer. Anything else, is up to you to find out on your
own.
Most of you will admit…. There is NO Other company on the market, that offers this
kind of customer service, and this kind of help to All and everyone. That is why we do it. We want to set ourselves apart from the rest.
There is a lot more to Hard Racing than just selling High Performance
Parts.
That being said, let's get to it.
NOTE:
If your installing a FULL System, we recommend getting NEW Exhaust Gaskets. These can be purchased from your Local Honda
Dealer for only a few Dollars.
They are NOT a must have. But it is
recommended. For
Slip-ons…..There is No Need to do this.
Step 1)
As you all probably already know the CBR1000RR is a Very compact bike. These days the manufactures are stuffing more
parts into smaller spaces. So, be patient and take your time while you remove all the
necessary pieces to install the exhaust.
You will see 4 more Allen bolts to remove the Rear Tail Section. Do your best to make a note, or label these bolts. When it’s all done, your going to have a lot
of bolts and they are not all the same. Your
either going to need a great memory, or some labels or notes to remind yourself where each
bolt goes when you bolt it all back up.
Step 2)
Now that you have removed the Rear Tail, it’s time to get that ugly Rear Fender off.
Take it all off. If you
want to put some of the pieces back on when you’re done, like we did…. Cool. But, for now, take it all off. It’s pretty straight forward.
Step 3)
Moving Forward from the Tail, take off all the bolts that hold the Canister and the
Mid-pipe.
We have a few pictures to show some of the bolts that you may not realize are holding the
exhaust.
Work all the way up to the right side Foot Controls.
These need to come off. No
worries. It’s only Two Big Allen Bolts. It’s easier if you also remove the Rear
Passenger Pegs (2 Bolts) and Rear master cylinder Reservoir (1 Bolt) as well.
Now, remove the heat shield that was behind the driver foot controls.
One is a black plastic piece, and the other is an Alum. Shield. One again, one or two bolts, and they are off. Keep the bolts with these pieces, making it easier
for you later on.
You may want to do like we did, and re-use them, so as not to melt your right leg. J
If you are just doing a Slip-On….. Then Skip to Step 7)
Step 4)
Now, work your way forward undoing the bodywork. We
found it easiest and quicker to undo the Lower and the mids together, as one big Piece. See Picture below.
You’re going to see that some of these Allen Bolts are different from the others. Once again, we highly recommend you note where
each bolt goes.
The Upper Fairing does NOT need to be removed. Only
the lowers and the Mids.
Note the right side is a little tight since Honda Stuffed the Radiator Reservoir in there.
But, overall it’s not that bad.
Step 5)
Now that you have all the necessary bodywork off, it’s time to lower the Radiator. This is quite easy, as Honda had continued to only
use one Upper Bolt, and one lower Bolt to hold it in place.
The upper Bolt is located on the right side, and the lower Bracket is right
in the middle. You also need to remove the
Two Bolts on the right side that hold the Radiator Reservoir and Hose. See Pictures below.
Unplug the Fan.
Take your time and lower the radiator our of the way as low as possible. The hose are very
flexible. Just be careful not to scrap the
radiator on anything.
Step 6)
Now that the radiator is out of the way, go ahead and unscrew the 10mm Exhaust Header
Bolts.
We found it easiest to use an Air Wrench. Takes
about 2 mins. But, if you don’t have
one, it’s no problem. Just take your
time the old fasion way with a Socket wrench.
Step 7)
Once all the bolts are off, head over to the left side of the bike. Looking in the middle of the bike, follow the
canister to the mid-pipe. About 5 inches
forward and you will see the New HTEV (Honda Titanium Exhaust Valve). There are two cables running into the Valve. These Cables run Through the Middle of the Bike
over to the left side, where the Servo Motor is located.
Just above the Countershaft Sprocket. This
is a little motor with a Gold Wheel.
You will need to rotate this wheel to remove the cables.
The key is, when you are done, this wheel MUST be rotated Back to the
Zero Position which is where it is Right Now. If
not the EFI Warning light will stay on, since the bike will “THINK” there is a
malfunction. So, we recommend taking a black
marker, and making a little mark on the wheel and the Servo Motor, so you know where
rotate the wheel back to the “Zero”
position is when you are done. Simple and
easy.
Now, Go back to the HTEV, and Unscrew the Cover, so as to get access to the Cable Ends.
10mm wrench will lose the nuts. Once they are lose, the bottom cable is spring loaded. Just push back on it, and pull and it will pop
right off. Once this is done, it’s easy
to remove the other cable.
Once Both cables are off on that end, you
need to back to the servo motor and remove them off the gold wheel. Some of you lazy buts, might not do this. But, since you are taking a chance the cables get
hung up, we recommend taking them all the way off.
The Wheel has little grooves that will allow you do pop the ends straight down. One at a time. Once the cables are disconnected, slowly pull them from the HTEV end out completely removing them from the bike.
Now rotate the Gold Wheel on the Servo Back so the Two Black Marks you made align up. Thus putting it back in the “Zero” Position.
Now, you should have ALL Bolts and cables remove from the Exhaust.
Wait. DOUBLE check them
all. Don’t forget the one right in the
middle of the exhaust. It’s on the very
bottom of the bike, and points straight up. You
have to get way down to see it. See
PICTURE below.
You should have no problem removing the stock exhaust now.
For your Slip-On Guys. Just
unscrew the Clamp that hold the Canister and HTEV.
Your pretty much done from here. Just install your Slip-On and button everything back up. Don’t forget to connect your Tail Light back up. J
For you full system guys….. like us ……. We have a little more work to do.
Step 8)
Each System will vary slightly on the install process.
So, expect some differences. As
you can see, WE installed the Micron Serpents. We
had HUGE power Gains when we installed the Serpents on the CBR929/954, so we are planning
on the same for the CBR1000RR.
Take the headers and install them separately. Do NOT tighten them down. Just get them up there, with the Nuts, started to
secure them and keep them from falling off.
You may need to move the radiator up to do this. Just hang it off that Upper Peg Mtn. so as
temporarily to hold it up. This makes it a
little easier. Once you have installed the
headers, you can move the radiator back down, so you can really tighten down the headers
with a wrech or socket later on.
Now take the Collector and install that onto the Two Headers.
Install the supplied springs, that hold the Collector to the Headers. Springs love to pop off, so we recommend taking
some pliers and bending then ends to be more hooked, and less chance to pop off.
Don’t go overboard and you'll wind up Breaking them.
If you do, don’t call us up complaining because YOU bent them too much. J
Now, Take the Mid-pipe and slide that into the Collector.
Don't tighten it down yet. 
Find the Canister Brackets and install them on the canister. Do NOT tighten anything down until you get the
alignment correct.
Slide the Canister onto the Mid-pipe. Now
Adjust the Canister band so the Brackets align up with the Mtn. Holes on your Subframe.
From this point you’re kind of on your own. Since
we are not there with you, we cannot really help on the alignment part. You just have to take your time, and get
everything aligned up BEFORE you tighten everything down.
Step 9)
Now that you have everything aligned up, start from the Front, and tighten the header
Bolts. Then work your way back to the Middle
Bolt, that you probably forgot to take off in the beginning while remove the stock
exhaust. Then you’re probably going to
need to re-align the canister again. Once
this is done, tighten down the Pinch Bolts on the Clamp that hold the Mid-pipe into the
collector. Align the canister again to where
you like it.
Now, tighten down the
Canister Clamp. This will move the Canister a
little. If it aligns correctly, tighten down
the Clamp that holds the Mid-pipe to the Canister. No
need to use springs here. The clamp is good
enough. If everything looks correct. Then
loosen ONE bolt at a time on the canister clamp, and put some Locktite BLUE on
the bolts. Come on guys, these bolts are
UPSIDE Down, and they hold your canister. Odds
are they will vibrate lose and fall out. Then
your canister will be flopping off your tire while you’re driving down the road. And that is no good.
Step 10)
Move your radiator back into place, and bolt it back up. Do this with the Reservoir tank as well.
Don’t Forget to plug your Fan back in.
Step 11)
You should now have completely installed your exhaust, it’s just a matter of
buttoning up your bike’s bodywork.
Before you do this go ahead and start the bike. Check for anything rattling, or leaks. It’s always best to do this BEFORE you put
all the bodywork back on, so you can completely see the exhaust, and hear everything.
Now that you have thoroughly checked everything and it all looks good, go ahead and
re-install all your bodywork. Be patient
installing your Front pieces. It’s a tight fit with that Radiator Reservoir tank. But, it will go on.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ONE LAST REQUEST:
Guys, took the time to write this "book" JUST
to help and assist you with your exhaust adventures.
WE DID NOT do this, to say:.... “Please
ask us for MORE Tech Support”.
WE DID NOT do this, so you would call us and ask us Even More Questions.
Because the fact is we do NOT have any more
information to offer, other than the BOOK we wrote here.
So we are asking..... Please don’t call and ask for more info. This is all we have to offer. The rest is up to you.
Use this information as a Guide line to help you out, and hopefully you appreciate
we took the time to write all this up. Because
we didn’t have to. We
just wanted to. J
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BONUS INFO.
We did find that on the Micron Serpents, we
were able to re-install the Right Side Heat Shield.
The Alum. Heat Shield Bolts back up to the stock location. But, There is about 4 inches of extra metal that
hangs below the Mid-pipe. To us, this looked
ugly so, we sized it up marked it, pull it back off, and sawed the extra crap off and
filed it as to not have any sharp edges.
Then we re-installed the Alum. Heat shield using the stock Upper Mtn.
On the bottom mtn, we simply safety wired the clip that’s welded on the Heat Shield
to the back of the Foot controls Bracket. 
Don’t worry, the Black
Plastic Shield will cover this over, so you won’t see it.
Not sure if this is possible on any other Exhausts, We have Not tried as of yet.
But, it IS Possible on the Micron Serpents.
---------------------------------
As you can see now, you
have some ugly heat shield showing. Around the canister.
If you want, you can do as we did, and take the STOCK Exhaust "Wings" to
cover the heat shield.
We took apart the wings. There are 3 pieces.
The Black metal Piece, The Silver Plastic and the Black Plastic. They are
held together by ONE Black Phillips Head Screw located on the back.
With a marker, we drew a line on the Metal and the Black piece where it would need to be
trimmed to have a nice clean look. This
removes the Extra crap that hangs down. Then
you re-assemble the wings, and bolt them back on to your bike.
Now, of course you can ONLY do this, if you are getting the Fender Eliminator Kit that we
sell. Otherwise you’re not going to be
able to have a place to install your tag. So,
make sure you plan on getting one of these, if you’re going to chop up the rear
Fender parts like we did. In the end, it looks awesome. But, hey…..
That’s Just our opinion.
Good Luck.
<< BACK TO CBR1000RR HOME PAGE
<< BACK TO MICRON SERPENT HOME PAGE
