HARD RACING.com   2012 Polaris RZR S Project Build




Hard Racing Performance     2012  RZR 800 S     Project Build


Pre-Installation Setup      

 So before we got started, we took some measurements.
We measured the Ride Height of the RZR.. so we could adjust the shocks after all the parts were installed to keep same ground clearance as.  We also took the corner weights of our RZR, to have a base line.
Its Basically, How much each corner weighs along with TOTAL weight of the RZR.
We knew we were going to be adding a lot of weight, but wanted to know exactly how much and where the weight is.
This would help us setup the RZR Suspension after the modifications to keep it balanced.   

So our Corner weight Scales showed the RZR in Stock Trim came in at 1103 lbs  Total w/  a ½ tank of Fuel

41.8% of that weight was in the front, and 58.2% in the Rear.   Cross weight was 49%.  Meaning the Machine was pretty close to the optimal 50% cross weight.   On Road surface you want it within .5%   but for off-road  49% Is fine.


The Project Begins

Under Body Protection 
So.  Our First order of business was Protection. 
The stock plastic Skid is not bad. Especially in later model years, they made them better then when the RZR First came out.
 But there is still NO protection under the  4  A-Arms.   Nothing on the sides, and Nothing in the Front Center, or Rear Center.  So We installed a complete Pro-armor  Kit.  Consisting of High Grade Alum. Protectors for the Front A-Arms, REAR A-Arms, Front Skid (Under the Diff) , Center Front, Center Rear, L&R Sides, Rear Skid Under Diff .


FRONT  A arms   
Install is fairly straightforward takes about 5 min.  Kits include all the hardware using ½ shell brackets that clamp onto the A-Arms. Beforehand test fit everything aligns up good while the bolts are loose. Try to push the armor plate back as far as possible so it's butt up against the front of the a arm and tighten everything down nice and secure very easy and straightforward.  We would recommend putting blue Loctite on the bolts.


REAR  A arms
Like the Front, straightforward install takes about 10 min.  Kit comes with Some Self Tapping screws.
We added an extra one, for more secure install.  Again Loctite  BLUE on all bolts.  We have yet to have any bolts fall out or come loose.

Center, Center Rear, Sides    
Same Easy to install layout.  Kits  use OEM Fasteners
The CENTER REAR,  had no access to the Rear Drive Shaft Zerk.  And We wanted to be able to access the Zirk without always having to remove the Side.  So we measured the distance, and  drilled a hole  in the New Skid with a Hole Cutout bit.  Easy to do.   And good to go.


As most of you know the Front of our RZR is very vulnerable to damage.  It’s easy to get a little squirley on the trail and wind up bumping a tree.   Usually the Tree Wins.  Unless you have Some protection.  Without protection on your front end, your Radiator can easily get smashed  along with your plastics.  So our next course of action was a Front Bumper.  We also wanted it to have a winch mount as well.  The higher the better, so the winch doesn’t get submerged in water as often.
Since we had already decided on a WARN XT300 Wireless Winch, it seems logical to go with the WARN Bumper/Winch Mount Package.  For all of you that are about “LIGHT WEIGHT” this is Not the bumper for you.  This is Mild Steal.  It’s a Beast.  Like Tank Style.  But, damn it doesn’t fit, and look great.  And works exactly as advertised.
First you remove the  Front plastic cover for  stock location winch mount.    You Attach the Lower mount  Plate into the Frame.
Then you have a Support bar that mounts, Behind your subframe.  It’s attached with Steel U-Bolts. On both sides.
This is really nice, because it gives more stability and strength in the event you bang into something.  And properly protects your Radiator, lights, and plastics.  2 More bars connect the Bumper to this Rear Support bar.   Bolts go into the Bumper underneath to connect to the Bottom Support Plate, to complete the install. 

The Winch nestles right in the middle of the Bumper for a somewhat  protected location.  Keeping it up nice and high and out of water reach.
We opted for the WARN XT30  to save some weight.  It uses a Synthetic Rope instead of the Steel Cable.  It also includes a Wireless remote which is really nice.  3000lbs pull so it should be able to free us from any situation.
The Winch includes hardware and fairlead.  Mounting points were easy to access and everything bolted right up, since it was a WARN Bumper and a WARN Winch.  The bumper will ALSO Mount to most all common winches.  Not just WARN.
Wiring the winch is pretty straight forward.  You have to run the power cables from the winch into the Cabin area.  There is a controller that we mounted up high on the firewall.  Which keeps it away from most water and dirt.  Yet allows us easy access if needed.  Then we ran the rest of the power cables down underneath and to the battery.

Now that we had the FRONT Bumper and Winch done, it was time to do a Rear Bumper.  

We also wanted to have a spare tire on board, just in case.  The logical Choice was EMP.  They make outstanding quality Parts, in Cleveland Ohio.  The nice thing about EMP is most all their parts are made to work together.  Example.   The Spare Tire Carrier bolts right onto the Rear Bumper.  We also installed a Rear Trailer Hitch Kit that overlaps with the Rear Bumper Lower Support plate.  The way they machine the parts allows it to share the same location and mounting points.

Install was very straight forward. You remove the rear plastics from your RZR.  We just took the entire bed off in one quick swoop.
That allowed us easy access to everything. Before we started on the bumper, we remember reading about how hot the Temps got under the rear Truck Bed.  So we wrapped the Stock Exhaust in Thermal Exhaust Wrap.  We also installed a Larger Metal Heat Shield 24”x36”.   This was sourced from Lowes for about $15.  Easy to work with and cut to size with Tin Snips.
Once that was complete we moved onto the Rear Bumper.
You remove the Upper OEM Support bracket and replace it with the  EMP Upper Mount for the Bumper.  Then  you install the Lower Support Plate.  When installing the lower support plate, we found the Included Carriage bolts where a little to thick to fit.  Again this could be from running change by Polaris, or wide tolerance by Polaris. The Trailer Hitch plate goes on top of the Lower Bumper Support Plate as they share the Same mount location.
Then you mount the rear bumper.  Before tightening the bolts, you take the last 2 Side Support bars, attach them to the bumper.  Then you mark where they need to attach to the rear subframe and Drill a small hole. After that you install the bolts into the Sub-frame.   Again, Before Tightening town, check all the fitment.  Now pull the rear bumper off, and install your plastics back on(Rear Bed, and lights)  Then you bolt the bumper back on along with the Spare Tire Carrier (in our example)   and tighten up all your carriage bolts.  It’s takes a little patience to work each bolt down tight, as there is just enough  room to get your socket wrench in there and crank them.  We found the universal pivot socket adapters really helped get the good angles on the bolts.

After it was all the done the end result looked great.  The Rear Bumper is ROCK Solid.  And the Spare Tire sits back and out far enough to have complete access to your rear truck bed.  Or Storage box, in our example. (more to come on that)
The Carrier designed to accept Front or Rear Tires. 



REAR BUMPER  Spare Tire Carrier      

This mounts directly to the rear bumper using 2 of the same Bolt holes that use Bumper use to mount to the Truck, and 2 more which are there specifically for the Carrier Mount.  Access is limited, so you have to take your time if you’re using a regular ratchet & socket or box end wrench.  We were fortunate to have an Airwrench, so install took about 3 minutes.

The Kit includes 2 lug nuts to secure your spare tire down.
Yes, it does add more length by sticking out off your bumper.  BUT, you still get FULL access to your rear bed/storage box.  And it’s very easy to remove the spare tire, in the event of a flat.

The Rear Truck bed can store a lot of stuff.  Lots of guys like to put their fuel tanks, and 3rd seat, Iglo coolers…etc.
We like to use it for tools, Spare Helmet, Jackets, Air Pump, Maps…etc.  Stuff we want to stay Dry and clean.
So, We installed the EMP REAR Bed Box enclosure.  This seals up your rear bed, and has a Huge access Door.
The great thing about this, is your can store all your stuff (Jackets, shirts, towels, food, spare parts, wrenches,  )And they stay Clean and Dry.  No matter how much mud flings on the back, they stay clean and dry.
The Enclosure comes with these nifty little plug caps, to fill in the holes in the OEM Rear Bed. 
Also included are 4 TieDown Anchor Plugs. Which not only secure it to your truck bed, but  you can use them to secure more stuff on the outside of the Box.
Installation is very straight forward.   Clean off your rear Trunk, and install the foam stripping on the sides.
We also installed the foam around the door opening.   You mount the hardware on the cover, using supplied bolts.
It also includes 4 anchor plates, used to secure something like a fuel tanks or coolers.
The only issue we found was the Access door, didn’t like to stay opened.  So we BASF’d it and added some large flat washers on the outside and inside surfaces.  This allowed us to crank the bolts down Tighter, to cause more friction and thus keeps the door from falling on your head when your digging inside.  Without the washers, if you crank the bolts down, you would just wind up eat a hole into the plastic shell And door.

Front   Windshield   

We went with an EMP  Half  Front Windshield.  Some guys prefer the Full Shields, but, we like a little wind, and if it gets all mudded up, you can still see out of it.
The kit includes 4 Quick Release mounts, and  a Really nice quality Rubber Seal that goes around the bottom edge to protect your bodywork.  Installing the gasket on the windshield take a little elbow Grease.  The Gasket has  little teeth built into it
Easiest way, is to  Kneel down on the floor and clamp the shield between to your legs and really push down until you hear  a pop
And then it will  stay solidly secure two people makes it a lot easier  The Quick Release mounts a simple to install.  You just mount them to the Roll Cage, without tightening them down.  Then you put the shield up to the roll cage, and lightly secure the shield to the anchors.  Once you have the Windshield in position where you want it, you tighten both the anchor clamps with a socket and the Shield Bolts with your fingers.   Nice Clean Fit and finish.  A common trick to keep your cable and anchor from flopping around is to install a tennis ball on the end.  This will act as a cushion within your Fairlead to keep the cable from Chaffing.


REAR Windshield   

Mud is great fun to drive through, but it sucks to get flung all over your back.  So a Full Rear Windshield was the logical Choice.
The EMP Full Rear Windshield was a perfect Fit.  As with the Front Windshield, it comes with 4 Quick Release mounts.  Simple to install.  You just mount them to the Roll Cage, without tightening them down.  Then you put the shield up to the roll cage, and lightly secure the shield to the anchors.  Once you have the Windshield in position where you want it, you tighten both the anchor clamps with a socket and the Shield Bolts with your fingers.   Nice Clean Fit and finish. 

With the same idea as the Rear Winshield, keeping the mud and elements from getting flung all over the cab, we went for the EMP Roof.  They call it the “Cooter Brown” Roof.   It’s OEM Fit, and works perfect with the EMP Rear Windshield.
Sits right on top of your roll cage.  It has nice Water Drip Channels to help keep some of the rain from dripping right into your cab.  The sleek design keep with the curves of the truck.  Install is quick and easy with supplied connectors that wrap around your roll cage and screw into the Roof.  It also includes a LED Map Light that you can install if you like.



The door nets are better then nothing.
But, we prefer a little less mud inside the cab and all over us.  It’s also nice to have the solid protection of an alum. Door just in case you go to war with a Tree, or worse do a complete roll over. 
There are lots of door options on the market.  We went for the Pro Armor.  We liked the looks, protection offered and they have a great reputation for top quality fit and finish.  
Installing the doors, is a pretty easy task, if you know these helpful hints.
To install the Pro Armor doors, you  start by completely removing the Door Nets from each side. Next you take out the seats
Then you assemble the Doors, by mounting the panels to the Door Frame.  They have a LOT of bolts and nuts.
Alignment was snug, so do NOT crank any of the bolts down until you have a bolt in every hole with a nut on the back side.
Then crisscross tighten them like you do wheel Lug nuts.  Once the panels are  installed, you can begin mounting them to the truck. There are 3 mount points.  One on the Floor frame Rail.  One behind the Seat.  Then the final is where your Front Roll cage mounts to the Frame.  The first two are straight forward.  The Last one can be tricky.  Here is a Tip to make it easier.


Some of you may have already tried this.  But, for those who haven't.  Here is a little trick to help making door installation a lot easier.    The RZR's actually use the Roll Cage as a Support member for the frame.

Meaning when you remove the Mounts, the Frame kinda wants to buckle.  It's not a lot of movement, but enough to make putting the bolts back in a PITA.  Most of the Door Instructions say, "Jack your UTV Off the ground".

Well that does work.. sort of.     But, it also flexes the frame to where you may Not get a good alignment.

When we lowered it back down, nothing aligned up the same.

So we tried something else.  If you run a Tie down Strap between your two Front A-Pillars, this will keep the roll bars for popping out and shifting out of alignment.

We didn't even have to jack the UTV off the ground.  All bolts where removed on both side, and no issues.

It was like we didn't even remove the bolts.

See photos here.


Hopefully this helps any of you DIY'rs in Future modifications.
After the door is completely installed, check for clearance issues.
Once you have that confirmed, you’re ready to drill the hole for your Door Pin Latch.  Just make sure you take your time and get the correct location.  Check it twice.  Drill Once. 
You then install the Teflon Spacer into the hole to keep the door from rattling.  They also include some Hardfoam inserts to put against the lower frame, to also assist in keeping vibrations down.
All in all it’s  very nice and complete setup.
Another helpful bit of information.  We found it best to use some Big Diameter Flat Washers on the roll cage front bolts, so when you crank them down  they don’t dig into the Metal Plate on the door.  That way if you have to remove them later or adjust the alignment on the Door Frame, and reinstall, they turn freely.  Otherwise they dig into the Door frame, and make a recess.
The Panels you installed that have all the little bolts in them.  Some of them are mounted closely to where your knees or shoulders would hit.  Probably wouldn’t feel good .  So we found some rubber nipples ends and pushed them onto the ends of the bolts, as a protection.  Also help not tear your shirts or pants if they got hung up on them.


As most of you have done, We wanted a little more safety, .. just in case.  So we opt. for the 5 pt. Harness from Pro Armor as well.
They have really nice wide padded straps.  Easy to use.  
To install Obviously, you remove the The stock Seat belts completely.    One of the Harness Lap belt mounts go into the Stock Seat Belt hole on the outside.  The other lap belt mounts go to the Stock location in the middle of the seats.
You simply remove the rubber boot to get easy access to the bolts.  You can even run the lap belts through the rubber boots, to keep nice OEM Look.  The Shoulder Straps go across the rear Roll bar.   Once you size them how you like them, take the excess strapping and wrap it around the bar and secure with a ziptie.  This will keep it from flapping around and getting in the way.  We opt. for the 5th Point Center Belt that comes up from between your legs.  Some guys don’t use that.  But we found the without it the harness tends to creep up your torso.  Not only that, but it helps keep it secure in place for more safety…  helping ensure you never slide out underneath the harness in a bad rollover.  It can happen.


Antitheft  PARKING LOCK      

Next we did a Little Anti Theft Prevention.     The EMP Shifter Lock.
This helps prevents would be thieves from easily stealing your RZR.  Yea, you can also put an alarm on it.  Or a Boot on the wheels.
But, for us, this was an easy and inexpensive mod that only took a few min.  

Simply pop off your Shift knob, and unscrew the Center console and remove.  This gives you access to the shifter.  You just bolt on with the stock hardware and included bolts.   We always want everything to fit perfect.  Sometimes we have to “B.A.S.F.” the part.  In this case, that meant notching the bottom to clear one of the Bolts.   We didn’t have to do it.  But, we wanted a perfect smooth fit.  It seems like there is such Large Tolerance in Polaris’s work, that you cannot make a perfect part for every RZR.  Nonetheless, it fits great, and works great.  Simply run a lock through it, and it’s at least going to make it very very difficult for a would be thief to just steal your RZR.



Helmet Hooks

Small little mod, we did for an easy way to hang your helmet out of the way, when you want to sit in your truck or just put them somewhere they won’t slide off and fall to the ground.


Oil Access Door   (self Explaining)


Aftermarket Pedals 

Less slippage when your trying to stay on the gas.


Cup Holder Secure Straps  Self Explaining


When it was all said and done, we re-weighed our RZR to see how much it gained and where.

So our Corner weight Scales showed the RZR in Stock Trim came in at 1103 lbs  Total w/  a ½ tank of Fuel
After all the modifications, it came in at 1426 lbs.  So we gained  323 lbs.  Which sucked.
But, considering we added all this stuff, it could have been worse. The PLUS Side was,  Weight Distribution was very similar to stock with 40.8% up front and 59.2% in the Rear.  Only adding 1% more Front weight bias vs. previously,  41.8% of that weight was in the front, and 58.2% in the Rear in stock Trim.  
Cross weight was 49.7%   Meaning the Machine was pretty close to the optimal 50% cross weight.   On Road surface you want it within .5%-1%  of 50%... so we are pretty much SPOT ON for a Neutral handling Truck.   This is good, when you’re doing a lot of Fast Pace trail riding, and switch backs.     Not as important when you’re going flat out in the Sand dunes. 

So there it is.  Our complete write up on our RZR Project.  Hopefully this helps a few guys who may be considering some or many of these similar mods.

We Decided to Shed a Little Weight.
So we Remove Oversized LED ACID BATTERY - 22 lbs.... that we started using when the OEM Crapped out.
And Replaced it with Ballistic Lightweight Lithium Ion 500 CCA Battery at 3.6 lbs
So that saved us little over 18.4 lbs Not to shabby.
And gained some storage space back, for blocks of wood to use as JACK PLATES.
Then we added a Battery Switch to make sure no parasitic Draw damaged the battery.




If you have any questions, or comments, please feel free to email.